Time to write something about this gorgeous display, after I watched it for few days; of course, these are first impressions and, if something new will be discovered during the next weeks/months, I'll add some comments.

Note: TV was tested using mainly HD sources (BD and HDTV) and some SD ones (DVD and SDTV), all obviously SDR.

there are a lot of reviews about this TV, but I put a link to one of the best ones: https://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/tx58dx90...174282.htm - I agree with almost everything, but I want to add my own opinions here.

Design

I was not sure about it, but now that I got it, I must admit it's quite beautiful. Yes, it's not the most thin TV - and surely its stand doesn't help - but coming from old FALD sets (Samsung before, and its almost-clone Toshiba after, both 55') that were about 10cm deep, and with a (relatively) huge frame, this is very elegant, with just two small "feet" visible on the front. I decided to leave it on its stand, even if it has a 6 degrees inclination.

Small note on its stand: this is very wide, almost as the TV, so you need a wide TV stand; some think it's a problem. But, really, do you think it's a nice thing to put a, let's say, 130cm wide TV on a 50cm stand, in a T-shape? Mmmhhh, I don't think so - always put a TV over a stand wider than it, as IMHO is more pleasing to the eye than the contrary.

Its screen is highly reflective, so avoid to put it right in front of a window; even if it could be seen as a cons, this help (I think) to achieve deep blacks, of course along with VA panel and ABC (Automatic Black Control). It's a pity the power cord can't be detached, but it's just a very minor problem.

Main remote is great, heavy, with backlight (sadly not for all the keys); secondary remote is nice, but I have not used it so much - I think it could be used as an easy channel and volume +/- for the elderly (so, perfect for me in the next few years! )

Connections

They are enough to connect any digital source; it's a pity there are no SCARTs and S-Video plugs, and that the only analog connection (component or composite) forces to let the back panel detached... the best solution would be to connect an external video processor with multiple analog ins and one HDMI out, so you get more analog sources, eventual better comb filter and/or upscaling and video processing, and the back panel in place.

Operation

Frankly, there are so many options - some available only with certain sources/modes - that I was overwhelmed; there is also a help menu, so for most of them you could find a simple explanation. Happy to have many options and don't use it, instead having few and need further ones. The only advanced option I missed a bit from the old Toshiba is the possibility to switch on or off red, green, blue subpixels, useful for calibration.

Calibration

Still had no time to calibrate it - just connected to the PC, but with only slow mobile connection, sadly... I'll get soon one of my forgotten HDD with calibration patterns, so let's skip this for the moment. I can say that some modes (mainly Professional 1 and 2) are great out of the box, so I used them for both TV and digital sources (BD and PC).

Black Level & Contrast

Used to old LED FALD models (which used the same panel) with only 96 zones, the step up to 512 zones is quite noticeable. Sure, if you watch a test clip made mainly to discover FALD zones number, you will note blooming (of course smaller than models with less zones) or the difference in brightness in the white box over the black background, but I noted it only once during closing credits, where a big logo inside a white box had noticeable brightness variations during vertical pan. Apart that, and other focused demo made to show the strenght of other technologies (like plasma or OLED), and of course during closing credits (that nobody watch, by the way), watching movies blooming almost never occours; I watched the "guilty" star field in "The Martian", but it was not as bad as described in the review - probably OLED could do better, but it has other, different problems (for the moment).

Backlight & Screen Uniformity

Setting backlight at 10 (from 0 to 100) on a dark room works well; I noted that some modes, with exact settings, have inky black (read: 0nits) while others have not - for example, Professional 1 has 0nits while 2 has not... of course, ABC *must* be switched on, or you can just buy a "simple" edge lit LED instead. Usually setting it at low avoid black crush, still getting a great black (depending on mode used).
Virtually no DSE (dirty screen effect) noted, apart on few occasions mostly on low bitrate SDTV broadcasting, so probably those were also due to the source. Many posts on various forums talk about two vertical banding on both sides of the screen, but I never noticed them. I did instead noticed in very limited occasions banding due to local dimming technology - the worst offender was AVP: Requiem, during the first minutes, on horizontal pan after the aliens in the glass tubes; I guess this could happen in so few instances that you could live with it.

Motion

I mostly watched material with any IFC (Intelligent Frame Creation) setting off, but lately I used custom, with Clear Motion switched on; still figure out how good it is (and if it's better with or without it), but I used it with Toshiba, and noted a better motion handling, so I guess this will be the same. But it's great to have various settings within IFC sub menu, to get the best possible motion control.

Viewing Angle

This could be an important decision point: even if I did not noticed a so terrible drop in contrast and/or saturation as mentioned in the review and elsewhere, it is there - due to inherent VA panel technology; so, if you watch it directly in front of it, and other family members and friends on both sides can't notice it (a lot), go for it; at the contrary, get an OLED - do NOT get an IPS panel LCD (IMHO!)

UHD HDR, 3D, gaming

not tested (yet); further impressions will be posted ASAP. I do only noted that input lag is around 38ms without ABC, which is the same of my previous sets, so I'm pretty sure it will be as good as them for gaming.

Other thoughts

Sound: old 10cm deep FALD TVs have (quite obviously) a good audio, and this is no exception - even if it's "only" 6cm deep. Do not expect an home theater quality level, but it is waaay better than any edge lit LCD or OLED TV! It's also good for listening radio - you can even switch off screen.

Overall video quality: stunning!
Colors are always well reproduced; it must be noted that it's possible to change color gamut - Rec. 709, SMPTE-C, EBU, Rec. 2020, DCI - and often, if not always, setting DCI with BD is better than using 709 (as should be); maybe due to the fact BD are usually graded using DCI gamut?

HDTV broadcasting is great, in particular live action and sport. But also very good SDTV sources are rendered in high quality - the upscaling job of this set is incredible, considering it should resize a small SDTV from "mere" 0.4mp to more than 8mp. Strangely, sometimes SDTV is better than DVD, but I guess it's due to low compressed and live action SDTV Vs high compressed DVD. I was worried to watch SD sources on a UHD set, due to huge difference in resolution, but now I'm pretty pleased with results; of course, you can't get an high definition image from a standard definition source, but it is more than watchable, and, with right high quality sources, I'm very satisfied; internal upscaler does its job very well.

Blu-ray is simply perfect. Have not the occasion to make a direct comparison with UHD-BD, but I did an half screen comparison using UHD source (not HDR) and its BD counterpart, and they were very close - I sit at less than 2mt, so maybe sitting closer could reveal more details in the UHD source... let's wait for further tests.

Skyline BD: great, SFX and live action blend perfectly, no defects detected.
Speed Racer BD: one of the most colorful movie ever made; artistic value could be debatable, but technically is an eye candy; again, I watched it carefully to spot eventual problems - blooming, banding, DSE... nothing detected. Watched half in daylight, half during the night... nothing!
Hotel Transilvanya 2 BD (2D): first vision for me; not so funny as first episode, still nice; visually perfect, except a light DSE during one horizontal pan - maybe due to mode used, THX instead professional.

European Song Contest final HDTV: well, this was great! I watched last year final on the old Toshiba but only in streaming; so, this time with higher bitrate, this was even better - and music was on par with image.

Use as PC monitor: happily, my old GTX760 support 3840x2160@60fps, sadly only 8bit, but 4:4:4. Great monitor, anything that before could be barely spotted as pixelated (like diagonal lines) now seems drawn - you get the point...

Final considerations

Coming from older FALD TV sets, and still owning a plasma TV (Full HD, albeit not one high end model), I was pretty aware of pros and cons of buying a FALD LED LCD model in 2018; I'm not crazy (am I?) to have preferred this to an OLED TV... no edge lit LED set taken in serious consideration, mostly due to their black level and screen uniformity.

First, price - bought used (but perfect, as brand new) with few operation hours at 950€, where new MSRP was almost 4000 at the very beginning, then repriced lower and lower until about 1600€ today (if ever available), I think it's a great price/quality ratio, surely better than any OLED brand new model - which is more than 2000€ for comparable quality, not taking in account basic LG models - and they are "only" 55'.

Second, image retention. I know the problem is not so bad as in the past, still it's present, and didn't want to risk a permanent burn in, as I use it as PC monitor for so many hours each day. Never had such problem during seven years using previous FALD LEDs.

Third, motion. Even if without motion setting "helps" this and OLED have 300 lines of motion resolution, when those help are engaged OLED top at 650 lines, while this one get 1080 lines. I'm quite sensible to motion handling, so this is very important.

Fourth, top brightness. Sure, OLED has perfect black, and will never have blooming problems; still, in over 99% of the times the black is inky as OLED (I think about black bars during movies, for example) without noticeable blooming; plus, top brightness is unbeatable for the moment - in particular with HDR.

So, at the end, I can live with occasional blooming and banding, while viewing angle is not a problem for me. Sure, next display will likely be not an LCD, but will be an OLED or a Crystal LED or another technology. But, for the moment, this is the best compromise for someone who uses it mainly as a PC monitor, that wants good motion, and high brightness.

If anyone has the digital LD audio for the Special Edition of ANH, please drop me a line!

Thanks

-Poit

Just stumbled across this over at doom9. It seems to be pretty stable now and includes a bunch of new updated/integrated gizmos that should make life easier if you are an avisynth/vapoursynth/virtualdub kind of guy/gal.

http://virtualdub2.com/

https://sourceforge.net/p/vdfiltermod/wiki/Home/

A real movie buff, awesome to find a site where everyone so keen to enlighten movies!

I'm collecting VHS, primarily Fullscreen, I occassionally come across titles that, rather than stating that they are Fullscreen or Widescreen, say they are "modified to fit your TV" Anyone have any experience with this, what does it mean? Currently looking at Requiem For a Dream, edited version, description - Canadian Home Video. " The film has been modified from it's original version. it has been formatted to fit your TV." I have  brilliant Toshiba TV from 1999, which I still use for VHS.
Regards  Glastontown.

I have not yet or I am yet to migrate to UHD... I have a UHD TV with HDR and I will eventually start buying in to this format I suppose.

But when it comes to getting a UHD release ok, I own every film I practically I want to own in SD or HD, If I want it in UHD It will have to be something I really care to own in UHD because of the price tag. And the player costs...

But all these releases still have all the bonus content in Standard definition... How stupidly lazy still keep  adding the same old Bonus SD content without re-scanning the bonus material and upgrading that also.

So it's as if there is no budget for HD Deleted scenes or documentaries only the films themselves and that really is a bummer.

It does not really make me want to re-buy any films that I really admire at all... I don't feel any draw towards UHD when I look at the extras and they are all in SD... And also nothing new is being offered.

Considering I also churn these days at about 4 or 5 new films a year I really like...

DVD was amazing when it first hit and it still carries on surviving and Blu-ray has not killed it off and also UHD won't kill it off...

So what will kill off DVD and the Special features from the classics you love... Because only the films get a job and most of the time people complain about it looking different and also everything in the bonus section is just ported straight over in SD anyway.

What reason to keep buying the same if nothing new is offered?

Hello.

I've got a HD WEB-DL of a film that I'd like to sync the original audio to, as the WEB-DL doesn't feature the original track. I've got two sources of the original audio. One from a laserdisc (taken from a video/audio capture rather than a dedicated audio capture), and an official DVD. The DVD is cut, as is the WEB-DL. I'd love to restore the missing scene, but as yet it's beyond my capabilities.

The problem I'm having is that the respective sources seem to be running at different frame rates. The WEB-DL runs at 24 fps, and the DVD and LD capture both run at 29.97 fps. Looking at the audio, the DVD runs about 2 minutes longer than the WEB-DL. The DVD suffers from frame cuts, as I'm guessing would the WEB-DL (additional to the cut scene). If I was to try to sync the audio from the DVD to the WEB-DL, what could I do to convert the audio to match the frame rate?

Regards.

I know this is a long shot, but maybe someone does have it

The Japanese LaserDisc has the english audio in it's original mono,
while the movie itself is uncut. If someone has it and can capture
the audio, with the video to help syncing, would be wonderful.

Since the audio on the LD is analoge only, I'd suggest to get the highest
capture quality possible, like 24bit at 96kHz. We can downsample from
that later on.

Thanks in advance

Hello again Fanres.

So I have some Video Footage that is PAL 25fps that has been converted from NTSC 29.976.
There are the usual signs like blending between shots.
This is video footage shot in the early 90's and not from a film source.

Does anybody know of any techniques to return it back to its original form?
Preferably by an AVIsynth plugin / script.

I understand it maybe impossible but there are wizards around these parts
Thanks again for your time folks.

It's no shock that the encoders built in Adobe Premiere are just trash. So any encoding would be done outside AP by encoding an AVI then using script. For the longest time i've been wanting to find another way to encode from Adobe Premiere and skip the AVI altogether. I think i found a workaround thanks to a guy that goes by the name Vouk. He came up with a free plugin based on LIBAV. I did some small testing alongside script encoding and got some nice results. Still have to do an entire film to make sure there's no issues.

https://forum.videohelp.com/threads/3853...r-premiere

https://github.com/Vouk/voukoder/releases/


Just need to figure out all the settings in the advanced settings to make sure it's as good as we can get it.